AISINTKH-002 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump - Compatible with Select Acura MDX, RDX, RL, RLX, TL, TLX, TSX, ZDX Honda Accord, Crosstour, Odyssey, Pilot, Ridgeline Saturn Vue

My Odyssey is old. It's a 2008 with 149K on it. It had 110k when I bought it, thinking that I'd drive it for a couple years and then get something better.Well, things have changed. I can't even find anyone selling the new car that I want, and a three-year old one with 50k miles costs about as much as the MSRP for a new one. Soooooooo, the old Odyssey is going to be here a while. I;ve grown fond of it - it makes a pretty fair truck. If I pull the seats out, I can stack a crapload of 4x8 sheet goods in the back. We've got to get cracking on the maintence if this pony's going to stay in our stable.YouTube is a big help. Lots of folks post helpful videos showing exactly how to do this medium-difficult job. I checked Amazon for the parts, and found them selling this kit as a Warehouse Deal for $50 off, putting this original-equipment kit in the same financial neighborhood as the ones stamped from pot metal in some basement in South Shanghai. WooHoo! It said that the packaging would be damaged (it was) but everything inside was pristine.The most difficult part of this job is removing the crankshaft bolt. It is installed at the factory with a special nuclear-powered torquing device, powered by the energy of a thousand suns. You will break things trying to get it off. You may get hurt. You will certainly use words that you would never use in front of your kids, or even your wife, as you pull the shattered chunk of snapped 1/2" impact extension from your bleeding forearm as the bolt just sits on the pulley, mocking your puny efforts. Many people say that this task should be attempted first, as if you can't remove this bolt, it's best to just send the parts back and get the credit card ready for a $2K bill from your friendly mechanic, who will heat that bolt with a torch to get it loose, not caring that the rubber insert in the crank pulley will be forever damaged by the heat. It's not HIS car, after all.There is a solution. A lump of metal, dropped to the Earth from the gods - a solution so simple that you can't believe that it would work. It is the Lisle 77080. A half-inch drive 19mm impact socket. What, you say? It can't be that simple? You already HAVE a 1/2 drive 19mm? No. You don't have THIS socket. It's easily 3x as thick as your puny Harbor Freight socket and weighs 3x as much. The idea is that all that extra mass transmits more of the bang-bang from your impact tool into the bolt, and less into the atmosphere.My experience.... I sprayed PB Blaster (there's nothing better) at the crank bolt's surface, waited while I ate breakfast with the missus, and then went out there and put my 120v plug-in Porter Cable 1/2" impact on the bolt in unspin mode. Sixty seconds of nerve-wracking, arm shaking, anvil banging attempts proved fruitless, and since I was starting to smell weird electrical smells from the tool, I decided to give the bolt a break, spraying it again liberally with liquid slipperyness and going back inside for a second cup of coffee (recommended for occasional mechanics). Half an hour later, back for Round 2. Put the tool on the bolt, hit the trigger on the hand-held bolt hammer and the bolt didn't last five seconds.At this point, I was committed to the job. Everything came off easily, just like in the video. I used an M12-powered Milwaukee battery ratchet to save time, and it saved a bunch of it. Thinking about all that ratchet-spinning and knuckle-busting that I was missing made me smile.As it turned out, the old timing belt was oil soaked due to an old serious oil leak from the cylinder-disabling solenoid at the left-front of the engine, something I replaced the week I bought the Odyssey. Other than that, it looked pretty good for almost 150K miles. The old water pump looked good as well. The pump in this kit was a perfect match for the original one that I removed. There are some substandard parts out there, but this certainly isn't one of them. It went on like it was supposed to and so did everything else. All the parts in this kit seemed to be quality items - especially the tensioner. It was indistinguishable from the one that I removed - it was just cleaner. The idlers, likewise. Nice stuff that matched the original parts in performance and appearance.Be aware that the camshaft sprockets are fighting against some valve springs and will be waiting for the first chance they can get to move a bit while you aren't looking. Check your marks. Check your marks. Check your marks. I had everything where it was supposed to be and was about to pull the pin from the tensioner when I dedided to check just one more time..... Yup, I was one tooth off on the rear cam. Easy enough to fix at that point. More difficult if I had pulled the pin..... Rotate the engine a couple of times after (clockwise, unless you want to take the belt off and time the engine again). Check your timing marks a few times until you are certain that it's right. If you removed the spark plugs, the engine's easy to rotate. The maintenance interval for the plugs is the same as the timing belt, so make your life easy and do that at the same time. Once you're satisfied that the belt is installed properly, it's just a matter of bolting on all the bits that you removed to get to the belt, adding coolant and cleaning up. Drop your clothes on the laundry-room floor, go take a shower and make yerself a drink. You've earned it.If you did everything right, your engine will run exactly the same as it did before you started, which will be difficult to explain to your wife.

They fit. They work. No leaks. Runs great. I did find out the original belt did stretch a bit. Replaced at 60k miles (too soon) but 9 years old (Past due).

Thanks for the parts ma car it’s running good

I like this kit. Everything was in order as described. Installed on my car, fit good, no issue.

Package contents was accurate, part fit with no issues, no issues with delivery. 2010 Acura MDX.

Smooth operation and my mechanic had no issues installing. Great price

fits acura tl 2006. should fit most honda and acuras with the j32. seems to be good quality....supposely same as oem. held up for 10k miles so far so good.

Changed on 11-27-2019I had a rattle on startup that was steadily getting worse over several months,which I suspected was the tensioner going bad. It was.Decided to purchase this and do the project DIY after getting quotes around 1K to do the job. Note that I have never changed a timing belt before. I just watched the How to videos and made notes to myself.Since you would have to take most of this off to get to it, I figured I might as well replace everything.The Crank bolt is tough to get off, even with impact tools and everything, it would not come. Had to put a breaker bar on it and crank the starter for a second to break it free. Then re tightened it and put the cams and crank at TDC.**This is the first thing you should do. If you can't get the crank bolt off, there is no point in going any further.Lots of parts to take off before you ever actually see the timing belt and water pump, but overall wasn't really bad. Power steering pump, cam covers, motor mount, accessory belt pulley, motor mount bracket etc.Needed mainly 12mm, 14mm and 19mm sizes. Wrenches, extension, 1/4 ratchet, 3/8 ratchet and occasionally a 1/2 breaker bar.Make sure to lay out the parts with the bolts to avoid confusion when reinstalling.Marked the cams, crank pulley and the old belt with a paint pen, to ensure that everything was going to line up. Make sure you indicate which is the Rear Cam and Front Cam to make it easier on yourself.****Here is where the trouble began***Counted the teeth on the old belt and marked these on the new belt to make sure everything would line up.Got the new tensioner, pulley and timing belt on. Did not start putting the belt at the crank pulley and I didn't pull the pin on the tensioner as I should have. Decided to rotate the engine by hand using the crank bolt to make sure the belt lined up.Belt slipped off and the cams and crank pulleys were no longer at TDS, Front cam was at 7 o'clock, Rear cam was at 2o'clock and crank pulley was at roughly 4 o'clock.I was sure I had destroyed my engine. Looked around on line and couldn't find the exact solution to my problem.Called a local garage and talked to their guy about my issue. Here was his suggestion:- First Turn Cams back to TDS. Either direction is fine. Some spring pressure will be felt which is OK.-However if it "feels" like something is blocking the cam, turn the crank pulley one way or another to move the piston out of the way.-Then put the Crank pulley at TDC.I did this and put my timing belt back on. This time remembering to pull the pin out of the tensioner. I turned the engine over a few times by hand and wouldn't you know it, my rear cam was off by roughly one tooth.Removed belt and tensioner again, recompressed tensioner in a vice and put everything back to TDC and reinstalled the belt. However, this time I used zip ties to hold the belt on the cams with the paint pen marks aligned. Double checked the belt and pulled the pin on the Tensioner.I removed the zip ties and turned the engine over multiple times by hand to make sure that the cams and crank pulley would line up at TDC every time. Note that your paint marks will not always be aligned with the TDC arrows on your rotations.Now was the moment of truth. Got in and cranked the engine and it started up. I shut if off after a few seconds because I knew I needed to add coolant and had a few hours of reinstalling everything.After everything was back together, I did have to keep adding coolant until the engine would stop over heating, but the car sounds a lot better. I have been driving it for 2 weeks now and no problems yet. I actually think my gas mileage may be a little better too.Even with my screw ups, I would consider this an intermediate level DIY mainly due to all the parts that need to be removed and the tight spaces. However you can save yourself 700-1000.00 by doing it yourself.If you are doing this DIY, I would not start this job at 5PM on a week night and expect to have the car ready for work the next day. I would suggest having a long weekend and/or a 2nd car.